Lopburi—The Monkey Town of Thailand

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The following day, we geared up for our next adventure—heading north to a town called Lopburi. After exploring Pattaya to the south of Bangkok, Lopburi seemed like a perfect contrast, promising a taste of Thailand’s countryside.

Unlike the urban sprawl along the way to Pattaya, this route took us through quieter landscapes, mostly fields and small, peaceful villages. It wasn’t the deep rural vibe like the countryside of Vietnam but still felt a world apart from Bangkok’s energy. About an hour out of the city, we spotted a small bamboo restaurant that reminded me of the bamboo eateries in Assam. The setting was simple but had a unique charm, almost like it was made for Instagram. The locals didn’t speak any English, so Google Translate saved the day again.

We ordered Thai noodles—a dark, flavorful dish, rich with a generous mix of meats. Unlike back home, Thai street food often includes premium cuts and organ meats, which add a distinct depth of flavor. I noticed a common pattern with Thai food: even when it’s supposed to be spicy, there’s always a touch of sweetness. With a hearty breakfast behind us, we continued our journey, catching glimpses of village roads branching off the highway. I promised Missy we’d explore one of them on the way back.

Our reason for visiting Lopburi was simple: monkeys. Known for its massive monkey population, the town has gained a reputation as something of a “monkey apocalypse.” During the pandemic, the monkey population surged, reaching around 5,000 today. Tourists flock here for the novelty, and the local economy thrives on it. While some locals view the monkeys as a nuisance, others revere them, even hosting festivals in their honor.

We arrived at the town center, guided by Google Maps to the “Monkey Temple.” To my dismay, no monkeys were in sight. I couldn’t help but think this might have been an exaggerated story from the internet. Still determined, I asked a shopkeeper about the monkeys, and she kindly directed us to a bike taxi driver who knew exactly where to take us. For a small fee, he led us to a temple a short distance away—and there they were. Monkeys everywhere, just as the videos had shown.

Around the temple, vendors sold sunflower seeds, a local favorite for the monkeys. After buying a bag, we wandered through nearby alleys, where every house had netted windows to keep the monkeys out. It was wild to see a town adapted to coexist with these creatures. At the temple, we paid a small entry fee, and Missy quickly found herself at home, playfully swinging monkeys on a stick she’d been given by a temple guard to ward them off. It was surreal watching my “monkey” Missy play with actual monkeys.

When we finished, we looked for a place to stay. Locals directed us to Theptani Place Hotel, a surprisingly grand building that seemed too upscale to fit our budget. To my surprise, the rooms were affordable, costing just 500 Baht—a solid value for what felt close to a three-star experience by local standards. Thai hotels definitely offer more value than those in India at this price point.

After a quick rest, we explored the town that evening. Near a local school, vendors lined the streets with snacks and knick-knacks, sparking memories of school days back home. We sampled street food, and I even tried a fried insect that tasted surprisingly bland but felt like a crunchy snack.

On our way back to Bangkok, we took a detour through one of the village roads we’d passed earlier. The quiet, flower-scented air around a Buddhist monastery was unforgettable. Missy smelled the flowers, and the place felt like a serene escape from everything. Though dogs around the houses prevented us from venturing closer, we got a real sense of rural Thai life.

The drive back to Bangkok was smooth, and as we passed through the peaceful countryside, I thought about our next adventure. Maybe next time, we’d venture further north to Chiang Mai, where more rural charm awaited.